The Genie garage door opener product line is bloated to the point where there are just slight differences between one model to the next. Unfortunately they cripple the low end models and sell them for a lower cost, even though these models sometimes have the same capability of the more expensive units already built in.
Many manufacturers want to keep their part numbers to a minimum, so they often put the same PCB in many versions of their product, with the lower cost product being crippled or having parts not installed. If you know where to look, this gives the DIY Guy the opportunity to add in that functionality.
In my case, I was looking to add in a Genie 38228R Battery Backup System to my Genie IntelliG 1000 (model 3024) opener. After I received the Battery Backup and attempted to install it, I learned my unit has a battery backup connector that was different and not compatible. They recommend a new PCB upgrade and new wall console.
After some research, it appears that the new version of the PCB not only has the right connector for the battery, but it has Series II protocol for the garage door opener. This seems strange that the newer board reverts to Series II.
It is almost as if Genie has abandoned their newest Series III, hardware.
In my mind, they are making a series of mistakes in their product line. Not making your product backwards compatible is a huge mistake and it appears they are learning this the hard way and undoing what they have done.
So having to buy a new PCB and wall console just the get the battery to work really angered me. This is all unnecessary and costly to the consumer. Reluctantly I bought the new parts and proceeded to install them.
They don’t make it perfectly clear as to which PCB you need to buy, but my research says I currently have a 37470R3 and I needed a 38874R3. While inspecting by PCB, I found a connector on the board for a motion sensor. So I decided to order a 37560R Motion Detector Module as well as my GENIE 39165R Series II Wall Console
So the new parts arrived and once I disassembled everything for the board swap, I noticed the injection molded plastic housing had the features you need to mount the motion sensor board, except the hole in the housing.
So I pulled out the Harbor Freight Hole Saw Kit and popped a clean hole in the housing after drilling the pilot hole as centered as I could get.
On the back side I put some blue tape to help with the breakthrough.
Once I drilled the hole, a little cleanup with an exacto knife.
Then I installed the Motion Sensor Module with the screws provided.
Once mounted, I proceeded to install the main PCB and all the connectors, including the 3 pin motion sensor connector.
This is how it looks from the outside once completed.
Everything worked perfectly, if I get about 15 ft from the sensor, the lights go off.
Not an incredibly difficult thing to do, but for $20 you might be able to add this to your existing garage door opener. I recommend peeking inside the housing to see if you have that 3 pin connector in there.
I actually installed 2 wall consoles into the same unit. I am not sure if Genie supports this. It works fine, although I did have something odd happen when I set the unit’s Sure-Lock when I went out of town. After I returned and unlocked it, I was unable to open the garage door using the wall console or the wireless remote. I had to pull the wall console off the wall, unwire it and short the wires together to open the garage door.
Every time I closed the garage door, I could not open it again. I would have to pull the wall console off the wall, unwire it and short the wires together.
In the end, I had to pull the battery backup connector out of the garage door opener and pull the AC power to fully reset the garage door opener. It’s been fine since, but I haven’t used the Sure-Lock at all. So either it is a bug in the firmware, or by having 2 wall consoles on the same unit is confusing things.